Denver Restaurant Guide

Run by a friendly Thai couple, Ubol and Prakan Chotinun, Old Siam is a tidy little spot, with a modern twist to its already amazing atmosphere. With goldfish swimming behind the sushi bar to the large dance floor used for special events, this place is one for everyone to visit!

Each piece of sushi (most priced at $2.50 for two pieces) was flavored - or not - according to its cut and taste. An oily slice of salmon offered the tiniest schmeer of wasabe, while an impeccable piece of yellowtail came unadorned. Octopus was squirted with lemon and topped with a thin ring of scallion; grilled eel came crunchy-edged and slicked with a not-too-sweet sauce.

Sushi orders come with a complimentary bowl of cucumber and octopus salad soaked in sweetened soy and sprinkled with sesame seeds, as well as a big smile from the Chotinuns.

Interestingly, pad Thai is offered at Old Siam only as the occasional special. Instead, Udol wants diners to try her "Heavenly Basil" ($8.50), large Asian basil leaves stir-fried with mushrooms, white onions and carrots in a thin, salty brown sauce. She also offers "Garlic Lover" ($8.50), which lives up to its name: big slices of garlic floating in a brew made from vegetable juices, the crunch of fresh tomatoes and cucumbers on the side.

In addition to Thai entrees, Old Siam offers a selection of Japanese dishes, such as the savory katsudon ($9.50), a pork cutlet pounded until almost liquid and topped with grilled vegetables and a fried egg, and sukiyaki ($8.95) with soft slips of beef over clear noodles; the sugary sauce is less cloying than most, and the beef was so tender we could cut it with a chopstick.